It may seem shocking, precious or counter-intuitive to think of wine as alive. But "RAW Wine" billed its recent trade and consumer fair as a celebration of “wines with emotion. Wines that have a humanlike, or living, presence.”
“Humanlike” and “emotion” may overstate the case. Yet few qualities are more desirable in a wine than a sense of it as a living, evolving, energetic thing.
RAW was a perfect opportunity to test out the proposition, as roughly 125 producers poured tastes of their wares in a cavernous, barely finished event space in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Over the course of its two days, the fair drew almost 2,300 visits, the event organizers said.
While RAW did not say so explicitly, the event was a celebration of natural wine, that contentious category that has polarized the wine industry over the last decade.
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